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Country name
South Korea is a safe, modern, and generally friendly country that offers some of the best birdwatching in Asia. It does, however, remain something of an “unknown quantity” to many people, even to the swelling number of birders just across the water in Japan. This section, originally written by us for the Korea National Tourist Organization website (go to www.knto.or.kr) aims to provide a few answers to some of the most commonly asked questions by visiting birdwatchers. As a point of interest this section of an image of Earth's city lights was taken from a full-size photograph created with data from the Defense Meteorological Satellite Program (DMSP) Operational Linescan System (OLS). Originally designed to view clouds by moonlight, the OLS is also used to map the locations of permanent lights on the Earth's surface. An immediately obvious point to note is the urbanisation that now surrounds much of the Yellow Sea and the almost total darkness of the DPRK (North Korea) compared with the brightly-lit ROK to the south.
 Satellite image of East Asia at night. Photo © NASA.
When is the best time to visit? Where are the best birdwatching sites? Korea has no network of reserves or protected areas yet. Birdwatching is therefore very dependent on local knowledge and up to date information, and new birding sites are being found each year. In general, though, the best tidal-flats and (sadly) reclamation lakes are found along the west coast, the best bays along the south coast, and the best seabirds along the east coast. There are also several outstanding islands for finding migrants. In slightly more detail, most of the best birding is on the west coast, either on estuaries (Ganghwa, Yeong jeong Island, Saemangeum, and Geum River and estuaries), reclamation lakes (Seosan Lakes and Haenam area), or offshore islands (Daehuksan, Gaego [formerly spelt Kago], and Eocheong Do). However, there are some wonderful areas in the south (Jeju, Suncheon Bay, Nakdong Estuary, Joonam reservoirs and Guryongpo Peninsula), on the east coast, and in the north (e.g. Gwangneung National Arboretum and the Cheorwon Basin in the DMZ). Beyond these places, for more casual birdwatchers, there are plenty of interesting sites within or near Seoul (e.g. Bukhansan and Namsan, the Han River at Beomsam Island ) and other major cities (e.g. Daejeongdae Park in Busan) Is there anyone who can guide me? Do they speak English? Birdwatching is still very small scale in South Korea, but growing rapidly (with more than a thousand birdwatchers nationwide by 2002). Governments, both national and local as well as some organisations, have started to try to provide some kind of information service and at a few sites have also started to provide local guiding (e.g. at Seosan, Cheorwon, Joonam and the Han and Geum rivers). In several areas, local birdwatchers, though limited in English, are high in enthusiasm and really enjoy “sharing” their sites with visitors when they have the time. Several such birdwatchers run very attractive websites. We of course offer guiding ourselves in either English, Korean, or Japanese. For more details go to Tours/Guiding. What about bird books or videos covering the region? Any recommendations?
The best English-language guide covering Korea is the Field Guide To The Birds Of Korea, with text by Lee W-S, Koo T-H & J-Y Park (LG Evergreen Foundation, 2000: ISBN 89-951415-1-4). Are there any good websites with information or images of Korean birds? At present, the only regularly updated, English-language website with information on Korean birds is our own. There are, however, a number of very beautiful websites, with stunning images of Korean birds, many with extensive galleries and names of birds given in both English and Korean: a word of caution though - image sizes are large, and without Broadband can take a long time to download. Many are on the usual search-engines and are quite easily found. What about travel to and inside Korea? South Korea is very accessible, with international airports and also ferry terminals connecting with Japan, China and Russia. Dependent upon your nationality, visas might or might not be required (please check at your nearest Korean embassy or consulate). European or US passport-holders do not require a visa to enter Korea, and can remain here 90 days legally. Most visitors to Korea arrive at one of three points: the Incheon International airport, built on reclaimed tidal-flats 1 hour west of Seoul; Busan International airport in the southeast of the country; or Busan ferry terminal, if travelling between Southern Japan or the Russian Far East and South Korea.
Buses run regularly into the central Express Bus terminal in Seoul, connecting to the Seoul subway system, the national railway system, and the nationwide express bus system. For those wishing to fly, there are some domestic flights from Incheon, but most are from Gimpo – an hour away by a regular transfer bus. Car hire is easy to arrange, and not too expensive (typically about 70 000 won per day, cheaper rates available if hired by e.g. the week). Key points to know include:
At Busan International Airport (in the south of the country), limousine bus services run visitors into the main hotel areas (e.g. Seomyeon and Haeundae) relatively cheaply and quickly.
The ferry terminal is close to the Busan subway lines and national railway station. Roads The road system is reasonably comprehensive, still rapidly developing, and occasionally troubled by very heavy traffic congestion. Most roads are signposted in English as well as Korean, and there is now an expressway, with cheap tolls, connecting Seoul in the northwest with Mokpo (“gateway” to the south-west islands and to Haenam) in the far southwest. Travel time, except on national holidays, is roughly 6 hours for the approx. 450 km. There are also expressways from Seoul across to the east coast, and of course between Seoul, Daegu, and Busan (distance approx. 450 km: travel time again about 5.5-6 hours). Several notes of caution, however:
Driving in South Korea is for the experienced and confident only. Roads can be extremely busy and driving, especially in major cities (especially Incheon, Seoul and Busan), is extremely challenging (go to Driving in Korea). During the major national holidays, such as the Lunar New Year, the roads are extraordinarily congested, with journey times between Seoul and Busan quadrupling to 24 or more hours! Those choosing to drive are well-advised to:
For visiting the best, out-of-the-way sites, going by road however is by far the most efficient means of travel. Rail Korea has a very efficient, clean, punctual and relatively cheap rail system. The national train system has two main styles, the faster, more expensive Saemaul, and the cheaper, slightly slower Mungunghwa. Traveling one-way between Seoul and Busan for example costs between 21 000 and 30 000 and takes between 5 and 6 hours.
Buses Buses are often more frequent than trains, are often a little cheaper, and are generally equally punctual. They however are usually not as comfortable or clean, with an air-conditioning system that sometimes blows either too cold or too hot (it is always best to take plenty of bottled water with you, and an extra layer of clothing in summer just in case). On longer journeys, buses typically have only one 15 minutes toilet and snack stop. If roads are busy, buses often travel in excess of the speed limit: occasionally hair-raising and definitely not for the nervous. Domestic Flights South Korea has a very good airport system, and there are frequent Korean Air and Asiana flights between major destinations between ca 6:00 am and 21:00 at night. As anywhere, timetables change from time to time. Tickets are surprisingly cheap, and often can be bought the same day as travel (though not at peak season etc). Boats For island birding, ferry boats are essential of course. Please be advised though that inclement weather often leads to cancellations, in the worst cases for several days at a time. The southwest islands are reached from Mokpo by an extremely efficient hydrofoil system. Reasonably priced (e.g. approximately 40 000 won for the 4.5 hour journey between Gaego Do and the Mokpo south ferry terminal), and punctual, all of the catamarans are clean with friendly and helpful staff. Other west coast boats are connected by slower, smaller boats, some being more reliable than others! The Eocheong boat, from the Gunsan inner port terminal, is frequently cancelled due to weather or engine problems, and in addition runs at different times each day because of the high tidal range. However, being slower, it allows for longer and closer views of shearwaters or murrelets. What about accommodation? South Korea has an abundance of accommodation for visitors, even more so after successfully hosting the 2002 FIFA World Cup. There are several types of hotel available:
Tourist hotels are found in most cities, whether small or large. They tend to charge about 80 000 - 120 000 per night per room, and often have typical hotel services. They are often, however, a little inconvenient for birdwatchers (being found in city centres, away from the best birding areas), and sometimes are very noisy (as they typically have night-clubs in their basement or in adjacent buildings). What other general things do birdwatchers need to know?
Health
Food
NB: It is considered very impolite to wear outdoor shoes inside Korean restaurants - if you see shoes lined up outside, please take off yours: they’ll still be there when you get back!
Clothing
Money
It is advisable to stock up on Won before arrival or at the airport. If changing money at the airport, count the money carefully before leaving the bank, as mistakes do happen and cannot be rectified later.
Korea is essentially a very safe country, but as anywhere it is not advised to wave money around. Keep money in at least two places: on your own person, and in the safest part of your hand luggage.
Communication
Electricity
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